What began in the 3rd century BC with the Romans planting 200 hectares of vines evolved into a vast 5,400 hectares and 800+ wineries producing delightfully smooth French wine. We made a quick stop to Chateau Cadet Bon, a small family-owned winery for a taste of Saint-Emilion wine, and the trip left us wanting for more.
Saint-Émilion is a UNESCO World Heritage site in the Bordeaux wine region of France, famous for its Merlot-based red wines, medieval charm, and historic limestone architecture. The region is known for its distinctive wine classification system, a variety of terroirs, and a rich blend of cultural heritage and winemaking traditions.
The name of the region came from a Breton monk who loved to bake for the poor and performed miracles, which made him unpopular with the powers-to-be and sent him fleeing south. Here, he settled in a limestone hermitage said to have been hand-carved by the monk himself. After his passing, monks continued honoring his work, culminating in the construction of the Monolithic Church, a structure carved entirely from the same limestone as Émilion’s hermitage.
Saint Emilion has two world-renowned wine AOCs: Saint Émilion AOC and Saint Emilion Grand Cru. The latter has three categories: Premier Grand Cru Classé A, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, and Grands Crus Classés. What does that mean? You might already know that AOC stands for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, which is a French geographical origin system that sets rules for wine production, including grape varieties, cultivation, and winemaking. Grand Cru is a specific, high-level designation within the AOC system for the very best vineyards, indicating exceptional terroir. So, while AOC is the overarching regulatory framework, a Grand Cru is the highest recognition a specific vineyard or plot can receive under those rules.
Our stop was focused on one winery: Chateau Cadet Bon, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. The place is family-run with pride, hard work, and knowledge that’s been passed on from generation to generation. In addition, the family brings in expert oenologists to help create the best blend based on each year’s particular production, a fine blend between artistry and science. Cadet Bon vineyard spreads over 7 hectares, 6 of which are planted in a single plot. Our hosts made sure we knew that they organically cultivate Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%) and use 100% biodynamic farming techniques. Our host explained that French wines depend heavily on the weather and each year the experts gather to decide on the best time to harvest, the proper balance of grape types, and the aging process. Unlike in California, where there is consistency in wines year to year, French wines are unique each year. French wine makers do not intervene much in the natural grape growth process —they won’t even irrigate!—which makes the wines unique to the year rather than by the type of grape.
Our host mentioned the challenges the winery faces as large buyers move into the area and acquire wineries. Having another successful enterprise outside of winemaking helps pay for land taxes and other expenses to keep the Chateau independent.
Here is a bit more on the history of the place, including the winery’s role in changing the region’s Grand Cru classification.
It was impressive looking at the map of all the wineries in the area! So many! I wish we had stayed a few more days to explore and taste some more… We strolled through the peaceful town of Saint-Emilion, following cobble stone streets and taking in the views. As always, we looked for food. We passed on the touristy place with a cranky owner and got the next door place all to ourselves. The owner was very nice and we enjoyed a light lunch on the terrasse. On our walks we admired limestone architecture such as the Monolithic Church and King’s Tower, as well as fields of vines, rolling gently in the mild sun, some starting to show fall colors.
