A one-and-a-half month journey through France exploring Bordeaux, Aix-en-Provence, and the French Riviera
During our month and a half trip, we visited with friends, made new ones, shopped fabulous fresh markets, picked mushrooms, indulged in way too much cheese, moules marnières, and wine, and explored the sunny Mediterranean coast.
Our journey started in Angoulême, then took us to Bordeaux, Royan, Talmont-sur-Gironde, Mortagne-sur-Gironde, Brantôme, Saint-Émillion, Cognac, Carcassonne, Montpellier, Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Caumont-sur-Durance, Gordes, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Saint-Remy-de-Provence, Baux-de-Provence, Arles and Salin de Giraud, Lyon, Bedoin & Foret Domaniale de Vantouret, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, La Ciotat, Antibes, Eze, Monte Carlo – Monaco, Menton, Nice, Cassis, and Marseille.
After a month in Romania, my husband and I flew into Paris. We caught a smoggy site of the Tour Eiffel from the plane. Once we landed, we promptly embarked on a train to Bordeaux, and then onward to Angoulême.
Angoulême
Perched above the river Charente, the small city is named “the balcony of the southwest,” and it’s home to one of my childhood besties. Our friendship started in first grade, then continued as we attended the same primary and secondary school, as well as high school. After graduation, I landed in the US, while she became a surgeon and moved to France. After all these years, I finally got to visit her—so exciting!
Downtown Angoulême was quiet as we strolled by historic sites and cafes.
The Hôtel de Ville d’Angoulême, formerly known as Château des Valois, is now the city’s town hall. Two of its old towers still stand: Donjon des Lusignan (13th century) and the Tour des Valois (15th century), while the rest of the structure was rebuild in the 19th century. Architect Paul Abadie employed an eclectic style, drawing inspiration from medieval, Renaissance, and classical architecture.
Another impressive building caught our attention: Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a 12th century Romanesque building, a testament to the powerful bishop Girard de Blay, and to the renovating mastery of Paul Abadie.
Angoulême is also known as the site of the second largest comics festival in Europe, Angoulême International Comics Festival, which takes place at the end of January (since 1974). One can admire comics murals on several buildings, and get a good history of the craft by visiting the Comic Strip Museum (Musée de la bande dessinée).
Les Halles Centrales are a display of modern steel and glass architecture with panoramic views of the Charente valley and the old commercial district of Houmeau. The structure is modeled after the more famous Parisian Halles Centrales, and its location also carries an interesting history. The location was previously the site of a 10th century castle of the Taillefer dynasty, Counts of Angoulême. A fortress until the 12th century, it served as a prison toward the end of the 15th century, before being repurposed as municipal stores from 1855 to today.
Once protecting the city, the old ramparts now offer a great opportunity for an evening promenade, complete with panoramic views of the extended city below, bathed in the golden light of the sunset.
If you are considering visiting Angoulême, here are a few more suggestions:
From Angoulême, we visited nearby Bordeaux, Royan, Talmont-sur-Gironde, Mortagne-sur-Gironde, Brantôme, Saint-Émillion, and Cognac.
Our next stop: Bordeaux!
