It’s (Not) All About the Wine: Bordeaux, France


Bordeaux in a Day: Wine, Culture, and Sights

A trip to France wouldn’t be complete without exploring its many wine regions and options. Bordeaux is at the top of that list! Beyond its wines, the city offers ornate Baroque and Rococo 18th century buildings, Neoclassical and Gothic 19th century architecture, views of Garonne River which flows from Spain’s Pyrenees to the Gironde estuary in Bordeaux, botanical gardens, art museums, and of course many cafés.

After a short tram ride from the Bordeaux train station, we explored Le Jardin Public. It was tempting to join the locals on the lawn for a relaxing day in the shade but we only had one day to visit the city.

We opted for the tourist double decker tour. But first, as I was standing in line to board the bus, I sent David on a quick errand to pick up a mandatory macaron from the patiserie just near the bus station, next door to the Bordeaux Visitors Center. Perched up top, we took in the sights as we glided by Place de la Bourse, Grosse Cloche (The Big Bell), Porte de la Bourgogne, Palais Thiac (Palais de Justice), Palace de Versaille, and Miroir d’eau before crossing the river and looping back.

I liked the juxtaposition of the old architecture with modern glass and iron works. Somehow it all fit, giving the city a certain gravitas. As the double decker rolled along the Garonne quay, we got a kick out of a young lady mock posing for the tourists busy with their cameras, myself included.

There is so much history packed into Bordeaux (as is present throughout the country)! Here are some highlights about some of the attraction points we spotted:

Place de la Bourse

Place de la Bourse played an important role in the port city’s trade and reputation. A place to gather by the Garonne quay, the square’s main buildings are the work of renowned 18th century architect Jacques Gabriel, First Architect to King Louis XV. Also flanking the square, the “Hotel des Fermes,” now the Musée National des Douanes (National Customs Museum) was built by Gabriel’s father to house the “Ferme Générale,” a body that collected taxes for the king.

Mirroir d’Eau

Across the tram lines, lies the cherry on the top: Mirroir d’Eau. The beautiful reflective pool was added in 2006 and it spans over an impressive 3,450 square metres (or 37,135 square feet)! People and dogs enjoy walking in its shallow water, cooling off and taking in views of both the river and the city.

Porte Cailhau

Further down the quay next to Palace du Palais, Porte Cailhau is a 15th century gate offering exhibitions and historical information inside its four levels.

Porte Cailhau, Bordeaux

Porte de Bourgogne

Just before crossing Ponte de Pierre, the bridge over Garonne River, we spotted Porte de Bourgogne, a 1757 stone arch that marked the official entrance to the city on the old road from Paris.

Porte de Bourgogne, Bordeaux

Grosse Cloche

Further beyond the Porte de Bourgogne, Grosse Cloche (The Big Bell) is one of the two Middle Aged entrances to the city. Built in the 15th century on the site of the even older Porte Saint-Éloy XIII, the clock only rings five times a year due to its age. In the past, it was used to signal good news like harvest time or weddings and bad news like attacks or fire. The “Lion d’Or” (Golden Lion) weather vane on the tower is a symbol of the kings of England (who ruled for some 300 years until the Bordeaux gain its independence in the 1400s). The gate could be locked as a fortress or to act as a prison.

Grosse Cloche, Bordeaux

Porte Dijeaux

Porte Dijeaux is another Medieval gate into the city.

Porte Dijeaux, Bordeaux

Pont de Pierre and Pont Jacque Chaban-Delmas

While Pont de Pierre is a collection of brick arches topped with ornate black iron railings and guarded by lovely iron lamp posts, Pont Jacque Chaban-Delmas is known as the longest vertical lift bridge in Europe. The section between the four steel pylons lifts to allow boats up to 77 meters high (262 feet) to pass. Standing in stark contrast, the bridges are testament to the city’s modern evolution that took place while still honoring and preserving its past.

Flèche de la Basilique Saint-Michel

From across the river, we caught a glimpse of Flèche de la Basilique Saint-Michel and its imposing 114 meters high bell tower (374 feet). The place used to keep an exhibit of mummies found nearby but (luckily) the bodies were replaced by a more palatable (maybe?) audio-visual presentation.

Flèche de la Basilique Saint-Michel bell tower and cruise ship on Garonne river

Palais Thiac (Palais de Justice) and the Law Court

Palais Thiac (Palais de Justice) is an impressive piece of neoclassical design, complete with intricate columns and statues.

Palais de Justice, Bordeaux

In contrast, the Law Court is a 20th century addition built with glass walls to signify transparency and openness, create a positive perception of the accessibility of the French judicial system.

Law Court, Bordeaux

Promenade Sainte-Catherine, Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux, and Hôtel de Ville de Bordeaux (Palais Rohan)

La Promenade Sainte-Catherine was buzzing with people shopping or just taking a walk. After a coffee stop, we walked toward Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux and Hôtel de Ville de Bordeaux (or Palais Rohan), the city’s town hall. Built in the 18th century as the Archbishop’s residence, the imposing neoclassical structure served as Napoleon’s residence briefly.

Le Cité du Vin

We ended our tour of Bordeaux on a high note: Le Cité du Vin. The museum is dedicated to wine, of course, and we had fun playing with the different sensory and interactive exhibits.

Le Cite du Vin, Bordeaux

We made our way to the top floor for a wine tasting. To our surprise, the guy behind the counter offered us Eastern European wine. I’m from Romania, so I know there are some good wines there, but when I’m in Bordeaux, I want to taste a Bordeaux or at least a French wine, no?

The tasting room offered panoramic views of the city and to we toasted in its honor—a perfect end to our first visit of Bordeaux.

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